What to Expect When You First Get Chickens

Bringing home your first chickens is an exciting step toward fresh eggs and a more sustainable lifestyle. But if you’re new to chicken keeping and have started with adult hens, it’s helpful to know that your new flock might not settle in or start laying eggs right away. Just like any animals, chickens need time to adjust to their new home.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through what to expect in your first month of keeping chickens, including how to manage your expectations, spot problems, and support your hens through the transition.

Key Takeaways

• Chickens need time to settle in: It’s normal for them to be shy or stressed at first.
• It can take up to a month for chickens to become comfortable: Expect gradual changes in behviour as they get used to your coop, routine, and presence.
• Egg laying may pause: Most hens stop laying for at least a few days, and often longer, after moving to a new home.
• Support a smooth transition: Don't expect your chickens to love you immediately. Provide a quiet environment, familiar feed, and limit handling in the early days.
• Monitor for health issues: Mild digestive upsets are common early on, but anything persistent may need attention.

Preparing to bring your chickens home 

A little preparation can go a long way to helping your hens settle in smoothly.

Prepare the coop in advance

You should prepare the coop before your chickens arrive. This means you can leave your hens to settle in, as your presence may cause stress until they get used to you. You should:

• Set up the coop and run so everything is ready: roosts, nesting boxes, bedding
• Fill the feeder and waterer, and provide additional open dishes of feed and water in front of the feeder and drinker, respectively, for the first day or so as the hens settle in
• Add a dish of grit
• Avoid free-ranging at first. Plan to keep the chickens confined to the coop and run for at least a week so they bond with their new home

Giving your hens a calm, well-prepared space helps reduce stress and supports a faster return to normal behaviour and egg laying.

Transport your chickens carefully

Ensure you have an appropriate transport environment for your chickens to reduce stress.

• Move your chickens in a cardboard box or pet carrier
• Transport chickens in pairs or small groups
• Don’t overcrowd! Chickens should be able to stand comfortably and move around a little
• Line the box or carrier with a towel to prevent chickens slipping around
• Cover the box or carrier with a towel to keep it dark
• Keep the car quiet
• A comfortable temperature for you will be comfortable for the chickens

When you pick up your hens, make sure you get some of the feed they are used to, so that you can gradually transition them to your feed of choice. This will help reduce stress and prevent digestive upsets.

Let your chickens settle in

When your chickens arrive, handle them no more than necessary. The less stressful their transition is, the more quickly your new chickens will settle in.

Ideally place the carrier or box in the coop, open it up, and leave the chickens to come out and settle in as they are ready.

Only chickens that are used to being pets will welcome your presence as they settle in. Most chickens, particularly those from feed stores or breeders, will prefer to be left alone in the beginning. 

The first month of chicken keeping: A week-by-week breakdown

It takes time for chickens to adjust to a new environment. This is especially the case when you first start chicken keeping, as there is no flock for your new birds to learn from or to help them feel safe. You can expect your chickens' behaviour to change as they get used to their new home.

While all chickens are unique and some may take longer to adjust than others, this guide provides an overview of what you can expect when you first get chickens, including how their behaviour will change, problems to watch out for and how you can help your new birds settle in. 

Week 1

In the first few days after arriving in a new home, chickens will be unsure of their new surroundings. This often makes them more timid and they might:

• Hide
• Huddle together
• Be very quiet or make more noise than usual
• Squabble amongst themselves
• React with alarm to any new object, sound or movement
• Eat or drink less than is normal
• Stay on the roosts or in the nesting boxes
• Refuse to leave the coop

It is normal for hens to stop laying due to the stress of a change in environment. Often, hens will lay one egg when they first arrive, because this was produced before they were moved, and then stop laying for a week or so. 

Stress or a change in diet can also cause digestive upsets, so new chickens might have some diarrhoea for the first few days.

After a few days, as the chickens become more accustomed to their new home, they will begin to display more normal behaviours such as eating, drinking, dust-bathing, foraging and exploring. The social hierarchy should become more established and squabbles will begin to decrease.  

You can help your chickens adjust by:

• Limiting contact with them for the first few days
• Placing them on the roosts once it is dark, if you find they are trying to sleep elsewhere
• Providing additional open dishes of feed and water for the first day or so to help hens transition to new feeders and drinkers. Just don’t leave these more than a day or so and place them near the realfeeders/drinkers
• Keeping children, dogs, lawn mowers and anything else that might be noisy or perceived as a threat away from the chicken coop
• Speaking softly and calmly, and moving slowly in the chicken coop
• Feeding, checking and locking chickens up at the same time each day
• Introducing a new chicken feed gradually over a few days
• Avoiding scraps or treats
• Offering feed in a small dish so they begin to associate you with food
• Keeping them locked in the coop for the first 1-2 days and in the coop and run after that
• If you are letting the chickens into a run, check that they are returning to the coop at night

Problems to look out for in the first week include: 

• Bloody diarrhoea or diarrhoea that persists more than a few days – contact your vet if this is the case
• Any bloody injuries caused by fighting – injured chickens may need treatment and should be separated from the rest of the flock until they are healed
• Picking on a single hen – this may require an intervention
• Lethargy and disinterest in food that continue for more than a few days could indicate illness and you should contact a vet

Week 2

By the second week, most hens will be adjusting well to their new environment and displaying more confident behaviours. You should see signs that your flock is settling in, such as:

• Following a daily routine around food, water and roosting
• Using feeders and drinkers confidently
• Foraging, scratching and dust-bathing regularly
• Beginning to roam further from the coop, and each other
• Less flightiness when you enter the coop or something unexpected occurs
• Displays of individual personality and developing relationships among the flock
• More normal vocalising – they shouldn’t be overly quiet or noisy, and there should be a range of vocalisations, including quiet clucking as they forage or dust-bathe
• Fewer squabbles

Hens that were laying before they moved to your coop may now begin laying again, although it can take several weeks for them to reach full production. 

You can help your chickens adjust by:

• Offering small treats by hand to encourage positive associations with you
• Keeping them locked in the coop and run
• Continuing to check that all hens are returning to roost at night. A failure to use roosts can be related to bullying, parasites or leg issues
• Beginning to introduce household pets from outside the coop or run

Problems to look out for in the second week include: 

• Any lethargic behaviour, disinterest in food or diarrhoea. These should have resolved by now, so if they haven’t, contact a vet
• Bullying and other social issues – Ensure a single bird isn’t being picked on and monitor your flock for any severe fighting 
• Hidden eggs – sometimes hens need encouragement to use the nesting boxes, such as false eggs

Week 3

By week three, your chickens should be feeling quite at home:

• The pecking order should be well-established and squabbles minimal
• Hens will roam confidently in the run and may begin expressing boredom if they are under-stimulated
• If the hens are adults (not point-of-lay), they will usually have resumed laying
• Chickens react calmly to your presence and may begin approaching you, particularly if they associate you with food
• You should see normal droppings and behaviour across the flock by this time 

You can help your chickens adjust by:

• Beginning to handle them gently to build trust, especially if you plan to do health checks in the future
• Introducing enrichment and boredom busters such as hanging greens, or scratch piles
• Beginning to free-range in a supervised, limited area if they’ve bonded well with the coop – start with just an hour or two before bed time and always check to ensure all chickens have returned to the coop

Problems to look out for in the third week include:

• Boredom – If hens don’t have enough to do, they will may resort to bullying and feather-pecking. Keep an eye on this if your hens are confined to a run
• Social issues – Keep an eye out for regular fighting, violence resulting in blood-shed and bullying, as by this point these are more likely to be indicators or social issues requiring intervention than the result of adjusting to a new home

Week 4

By week four, your chickens should be fully settled in their new home. At this stage:

• Hens should be laying consistently, in line with what is normal for the breed and age
• Chickens will recognize you and your routine - many will come running at feeding time
• The flock will move with confidence between coop and run or within their free-ranging area
• You’ll begin to notice subtle shifts in pecking order or dominant hens claiming favourite spots

If you started out with point-of-lay hens, they will usually have begun laying by this point. It is normal for laying to be inconsistent, and for hens to produce slightly strange eggs, particularly tiny eggs, when they first start to lay.

Problems to look out for in the fourth week include:

• Poor laying or any other indications of health issues may be a sign of nutritional deficiencies or disease and should be investigated

This is the time to:

• Increase free-ranging to match your intended routine. If all hens are returning regularly to the coop, you can stop checking on them at night if you have an automatic door
• Keep up gentle handling to maintain a positive bond

By now, your chickens should feel like part of the family — and you’ll have a solid foundation for the months ahead.

Trouble-shooting in the first month of chicken keeping

There are a few common worries that brand new chicken keepers tend to have, particularly about egg-laying. Here are some of our best tips:

1. Don’t Panic If They’re Not Laying

One of the biggest surprises for new chicken keepers is that adult hens may not lay any eggs during their first few days — or even weeks — in a new home. This is completely normal.

Laying hens are sensitive to changes in their environment. Moving to a new coop, adjusting to unfamiliar people, feed, and routines can all create stress that leads to a temporary pause in egg production.

Point-of-lay hens are hens that have not yet started laying. It may be 6 weeks or more before they begin laying eggs, although 3-4 weeks is more normal. 

What to do:

• Make sure hens have access to clean nesting boxes, high-quality layer feed, and plenty of fresh water
• Place some false eggs in the nesting boxes to encourage hens to lay there
• Give them time. Most hens will resume laying once they feel safe and settled

2. Slow and Steady With Diet Changes

If your chickens were on a different feed before arriving, it’s important to transition gradually to your preferred feed — even if it’s a complete, balanced layer pellet.

A sudden change can cause digestive issues like diarrhea or poor appetite.

Tips for changing feed:

• Mix their previous feed with your new one over 7–10 days, slowly increasing the ratio of the new feed
• Always provide clean, fresh water to support digestion
• Avoid offering treats during this transition — stick to the essentials 

3. Watch for Pecking Order Behaviour

Even if you bring home a group of hens that already lived together, you may still notice squabbling or chasing in the early days. This is part of establishing or re-establishing the pecking order — the natural social hierarchy in a flock.

What’s normal:

• Occasional chasing, squawking, or pecking
• One or two dominant hens claiming the best spots or food access
• Initially there might be a few fairly serious fights, but after a week most fighting should be limited to a peck on the head or chasing without making contact

While guarding feeders, drinkers, nesting boxes or roosts is not abnormal, it can be a problem if some hens are not able to eat, roost etc. If this is the case, you will need additional feed and water located in a different spot. In some cases, you may need to intervene with the bully or rehome the victim.

What’s not normal:

• Bloody wounds
• Excessive feather loss
• Bullying one hen repeatedly
• Constant aggression without breaks

If serious aggression occurs, you may need to separate the aggressor temporarily and reintroduce them gradually. 

4. Early Signs of Stress (and When to Worry)

Most hens will settle in without issue, but you should still monitor their health during the first month.

Signs of normal stress adjustment:

• Huddling or being less active for a few days
• Less interest in food or water on day one
• Mild feather puffing or light pacing
• Diarrhoea for a day or so 

Signs that need attention:

• Ongoing lethargy after 2–3 days
• No eating or drinking at all
• Consistent diarrhea or dirty feathers
• Labored breathing or strange posture (e.g., neck stretching)

If you notice these signs, it’s worth contacting a vet or poultry expert. 

5. Chicken Poop – What is Normal?

It’s not very glamorous, but chicken droppings are a good sign of health. But new chicken keepers are often unsure what is normal for chickens.

Chickens should mostly produce a fairly firm poop that can vary from tan to green or dark brown, depending on their diet. The poo will have a thin white cap. 

However, several times a day each chicken will produce a caecal poo that is pasty, smelly and varies in colour from yellow to black. This caecal poo often worries new chicken keepers, but it is a sign of normal digestive function. 

Diarrhoea or runny poo is not normal for chickens. But it can be a sign of stress and also regularly occurs in hot weather (temperatures above 30 degrees Celsius). However, if the diarrhoea has any of the following characteristics, it may not be normal and you should consult a vet:

• Lasting more than a couple of days
• Affecting the whole flock (except for in the first few days, immediately after a diet change or during hot weather)
• Caking the chicken’s rear feathers
• Any sign of blood
• Worms or a lot of mucus

5. Introducing Free-Ranging: Take It Slow

Letting your chickens free-range is a wonderful way to give them exercise, enrichment, and access to natural forage. But don’t rush it, especially in the first few weeks.

Before allowing your hens to roam:

• Keep them confined to the coop and run for at least 7–10 days. This helps them recognize the coop as “home” and encourages them to return there to roost at night.
• Only begin free-ranging when you’re home to supervise and can easily guide them back.
• Start with short sessions in a fenced or safe area, ideally an hour or two before dusk so they’ll naturally want to return to roost.
• Chickens will usually return to the coop on their own as the light fades. If they don’t, gently herd them back and close the door once they’re inside.

Always be aware of predators in your area and supervise whenever possible, especially in the early days.

6. Introducing Pets and Children

Chickens and families can mix beautifully, but careful introductions are key to keeping everyone safe and comfortable.

With pets:

• Supervise all early interactions, especially with dogs. Even friendly dogs can accidentally injure chickens
• Start with chickens inside their run or coop so pets can sniff and observe without contact
• Use commands and rewards to reinforce calm behaviour in dogs
• Never leave dogs or cats unattended with free-ranging chickens until you’re confident in their behaviour

With children:

• Teach kids how to approach slowly, avoid chasing, and offer treats with a flat hand
• Supervise all interactions and show how to gently hold or stroke a chicken (if the chicken is willing!)
• Remind children to wash hands after touching chickens or eggs — it’s good hygiene and an important habit

With time and patience, chickens often become a beloved part of the family, even earning nicknames, cuddles, and favourite treat deliveries!

Conclusion

The first month of keeping chickens is a time of adjustment — for both you and your new flock. It’s completely normal for egg production to slow, for chickens to act shy or out of sorts, and for you to second-guess yourself. 

With a bit of patience, routine, and observation, your hens will settle in and begin rewarding you with fresh eggs, quirky behaviours, and the joy of backyard chicken keeping. You’ve got this!

Suggested Next Reads:

• 5 Things You Need to Start Keeping Chickens
• The Beginners Guide to Backyard Chicken Keeping
• 10 Common Chicken Keeping Mistakes to Avoid

Happy chicken keeping!

Rachael at Dine-A-Chook Australia